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In
the beginning of July, the preparation begins: the boats are
painted, cleaned, the engines and compressors are fixed, the
crews are gathered and another season of underwater reaping
of algae begins. During three months one of the hardest toils
performed at sea in some points of the Portuguese coast will
be carried out.
Work begins ashore, early in the morning, at Carrapateira
and Azenha do Mar. It is near the "wall of sorrows", the name
given to the wall facing the sea at Azenha do Mar, that the
algae reapers look at the sea and decide whether or not to
work that day. It is also the place where they gather when
the weather is bad and where they talk about the future of
their activity and remember past harvest times. When the sea
allows them to proceed, they use small punts to reach the
larger yellow boats they use to gather the algae. The yellow
colour of the boats, together with the blue and white flag,
are immediate signs of the activity and presence of divers
in the area. There are two types of boats. The larger ones
have a crew of eight men, six divers and two "moleques", the
name given to the men that stay on board to pull the net bags
full of algae reaped by the divers. The smaller boats, actually
punts equipped with a compressor, usually have two divers
and one "moleque".
It is an extremely hard work. During preparatory work, the
divers have to pay attention to the smallest details regarding
their suits and accessories, as they know that any problem
with the diving suit or with the equipment they use to breathe
may condition their performance under water and increase the
risk of hazards. They also have to be very careful with the
consequences from a prolonged stay under water. Before diving,
the algae reapers put improvised bandages around their wrists
to facilitate the work and minimize the pain, cover their
bodies with oily substances to make it easier to put on and
adapt the diving suit to the body and use ladies' stockings
under the suits. some even use two pairs of stockings, one
for the legs and another one for the trunk. They make a hole
to put them over the head and then let them slip over the
arms and the trunk. The stockings make it easier for them
to move and avoid cuts in the skin near the joints. These
cuts, sometimes very deep, take long to heal due to the daily
contact with the salty water and the diving suits. There have
already been cases where those cuts became severe wounds that
forced the reapers to quit from this activity. They cover
their hands with rubber gloves (such as those used in the
kitchen) and sometimes use finger-stalls made of cloth or
rubber to protect the fingers from the sea-urchins hidden
among the algae and from the sharpest lumps of the rocks where
the algae are fixed. They also put on their back a plank,
which will help to keep their trunk in an upright position
while they are under water, so as to avoid the pain caused
by a prolonged and forced position. All these are empirical
solutions that, to a certain extent, reduce the effort.
The noise made by the compressors announces another day of
work under water. The air is gathered by the compressor and
sent through the hoses (some of them 50 meters long) to the
divers. The hoses connect them to life and to the surface.
They use them to breathe and to be pulled to the surface when
their bags are full.
After all the preparatory work is done in the boat, the time
comes to dive. With a jump, a somersault or, in more professional
cases, with a backwards dive, they begin another day of algae
reaping. They descend quickly towards the bottom, starting
a cycle that will last from six to eight hours. A net with
a hole with an iron loop is tied to their waist to be used
as container for the algae they reap. They perform the same
repetitive movements, until filling the bags with the so-desired
algae they call "erva" or "limo". Then they pull the hose
once of twice, to signal the "moleque" that he has to pull
them to the surface. They hang the bag on the hook of the
pulley mounted on the boat and receive another empty bag.
They repeat this cycle fifteen, twenty or even more times
a day. They may take fifteen to thirty minutes to fill a bag,
depending on the quantity of algae and on the diver's skill,
motivation and strength.
Most divers are aware of the dangers inherent in a prolonged
work under water (usually between six and ten meters), but
this does not avoid accidents. Sometimes they need to risk
to go deeper, which may cause embolisms. When accidents happen,
the divers have to use a decompression chamber (there is only
one in Portugal, in Almada, at the premises of the Navy at
Alfeite) or to dive far deeper and stay there for some minutes
to free the nitrogen accumulated in the blood vessels. This
is a very risky option that may lead to more severe consequences
than strong pains in the joints - lifelong damages or even
death. The work performed by the "moleques" on board is also
very hard and exhausting. They have to pull the bags filled
by three divers - each "moleque" is in charge of one of the
sides of the boat - and to arrange the bags on board to keep
the boat balanced and to find space for as many bags as possible.
The "moleques" also pull the hoses connected to the divers.
Among so many bags covering the deck one could be confused
as to who owns each bag. This does not happen because each
diver as a small rope of a specific colour to identify the
bag.
Around 1 p.m. the compressors remain silent for a brief moment.
It is when the divers go on board to a quick and meagre meal:
they cannot lose time with the digestion as it is under water
that they earn their living. There are even stories of more
greedy divers who, in the beginning of the season, when the
algae are more abundant, do not even come on board to eat,
rather grabbing something to eat in water.
Unloading the algae is another stage that requires a strong
effort. In some places with fishing ports, the effort is minimised
by the use of mechanical instruments (such as pulleys or small
cranes) mounted on the peer. Those machines convey the bags
full of algae from the boats to the tractors or trucks that
will transport them to the places where they will be unloaded
and dried. At Azenha do Mar and Carrapateira, however, this
work has to be made by the same men that have already been
working for six to eight hours at the sea, under the pressure
of the water. The bags are unloaded from the boat onto a punt
and from the punt to the tractor, all by the force of the
men's arms. On the whole, sixty to eighty kilos of algae,
wet and slippery, borne on men's backs, while walking on an
irregular and wet ground, with the sea water flowing under
their feet. It is a unique succession of efforts.
The drying of the algae turns this activity into a familiar
one. Actually this task is usually performed by the diver's
relatives, who take the algae out of the bags and spread them
to dry and later turn the on to dry uniformly. Here too only
the most experienced have the know-how to avoid that the algae
reach the factory too dry (Iberagar, at Coina, is presently
the single algae-processing unit operating in Portugal). It
they get there too dry, their weight will be much smaller
and the diver will lose some money. On average, the algae
have one third of their weight when dry. Therefore, it is
necessary to discover the optimal degree of dryness, to balance
profits with the risk of the algae being rejected by the factory.
The most experienced are generally the elderly. It often happens
that the volume of a heap of algae is not in direct proportion
with their weight, depending on the expertise of those who
treated them.
The underwater reaping of algae is, in all its stages, an
activity where man's physical effort reaches ultimate heights.
Those involved have to undergo long hours of draining work,
with a constant repetition of movements in an adverse environment
and under varying atmospheric pressure, often without compliance
with diving rules. It is a huge effort under circumstances
to which human nature is not used that makes this work one
of the hardest, toughest and riskiest performed in Portugal.
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